Reedle Shot Deep Dive! Science of Spicules in Skincare

Spicules. You might have heard this term or the trendy VT Reedle Shot products that tout spicule technology on social media recently. But what exactly are they? Don’t worry! We gotchu. The chemists are taking a deep dive into what spicules are, how they function in topical applications in theory, any clinical testing evidence, whether you should be considering adding spicules to your skincare routine, and just how to properly use VT Reedle Shots. 

What Are Spicules?

Spicules are structural skeletons found in marine sponges. In nature, they can range from being visible to the naked eye to teeny tiny microscopic sizes. They can also come in a wide rage of shapesand structure. In the context of skincare, the spicules that are typically used are composed of silica and shaped like hollow needles. The idea is that the hollow needles can potentially be used as a vehicle to help skincare active ingredients penetrate skin better, enhancing efficacy. Let’s take a closer look at the data!

Spicules help active ingredients penetrate better?

Early studies of spicules often tested on animal skin or skin substrates to see how it performs on skin penetration. In one particular study, they studied spicules averaging 250 μm in length and 12 μm in diameter. These spicules were presoaked in encapsulated fluorescent skin dye, effectively “loading” the needles. The spicules were then applied on skin. Microscopic images of the spicules-loaded actives were taken compared to just a cream with the active dye. The results? The spicule side had much better and even penetration of the dye. This is super interesting! But does the exciting result translate to actual human efficacy? 

Spicule Clinical Studies & Efficacy

Spicule application is still super new in skincare. The good news is that we were still able to find a few quality clinical studies that give us better insights as to how well they might work in real-life application.

There is a split-face n=20 clinical study that compared a growth factor EGF cream with vs. without spicules. Researchers looked specifically at wrinkles around the eye area. After using the two creams for 8 weeks, the side that used spicules in conjunction with the growth factor showed overall better improvement in clinical wrinkle scores. Though the difference between the two sides isn’t hugggeee, it’s still an exciting early study

In a very different type of study, researchers actually looked a spicules as an exfoliating active ingredient to treat acne. In this study, 14 participants with moderate to severe acne used a 3% spicule cleanser for 12 weeks with no other acne actives in their skin routine. Acne grades improved significantly after just 7 weeks, and continued to improve through the entire duration of the study. This suggests that spicules might have microdermabrasion-like exfoliating properties, reducing keratin buildup and acne-causing bacteria.

In our Chemist Confessions Podcast, we often cover new, seemingly exciting technologies in skincare only to find close to zero clinical evidence. Though these early spicule studies are promising and exciting, don’t rush to add VT Reedle shots to your skincare routine without these helpful guidelines!

How to Best Use VTs Reedle Shots

One of the themes of all the clinical studies we’ve looked at that involved spicules come with a very specific instruction on application. Unlike classic actives like retinol, spicules are a bit more complicated than just simply “rub into skin”. In fact, all the clinicals had participants massage their spicule test products on skin for 1 to 5 solid minutes (!!!). If you’ve ever timed yourself applying serums, this is probably at least 10 times the amount of time you typically take to apply topical products. So our first golden rule for getting the most out of your Reedle Shots is to massage it in thoroughly. While you shouldn’t rub aggressively, taking your time is the key to getting the most out of these products.

VT Reedle Shot 100 vs. 50: Is More Always Better?

The chemists tested two different concentrations of the VT Reedle Shots: the 50 and 100. These are the lowest concentrations fron the lineups. Even so, the prickly sensation from the spicules were very noticeable. Moreover, the sensations can build overtime if used daily. While in our experience, using other active ingredients like retinol and even AHAs didn’t seem to add to the irritation. 

Generally speaking, we enjoyed the Reedle Shot products we tested, but we don’t really feel comfortable ramping up concentration all the way to 700. Which brings us to the most important question… are spicules safe for long term skincare applications?

Safety of Using Reedle Shots Long Term

“Are spicules safe?” is probably the top question we got. Long story short - we don’t 100% know what the implications are using these on a daily basis. Looking at the clinical data available to us, studies have shown (on guinea pig skin), spicules can cause erythema, which usually resolves in 72 hours. Similar studies on mouse skin has show that spicules are capable of staying lodged in skin for up to 5 days, until skin naturally sheds along with the spicules. In these studies, it was also noted that TEWL (transepidermal water loss) was increased post spicule application.

What does this all mean? Spicules can negatively impact your skin barrier function.  At a tolerable concentration, it is likely fine to use as a once to twice a week treatment. You should always moisturize after using a spicule-based product. We would think twice about trialing it if you already have a compromised skin barrier! This is based on data that is available for the time being; we’re still keeping tabs on this as new studies come out. 

Key Takeaways 

Spicules are an exciting, evolving area of skincare, but questions remain about their best use. While they show promise in improving penetration and exfoliation, the formulation and active ingredients they carry will ultimately determine their effectiveness.

For now, our key takeaways are:

• Moisturize after using spicules to support barrier recovery.

• Daily use isn’t necessary—occasional application may be more beneficial.

• More research is needed on long-term benefits and safety.

Watch the Chemist Confessions Podcast Spicules Episode

References

Kim, T. G., Lee, Y., Kim, M. S., & Lim, J. (2022). A novel dermal delivery system using natural spicules for cosmetics and therapeutics. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 21(10), 4754-4764.

Zhang, K., Yu, L., Li, F. R., Li, X., Wang, Z., Zou, X., … Chen, M. (2020). Topical Application of Exosomes Derived from Human Umbilical Cord Mesenchymal Stem Cells in Combination with Sponge Spicules for Treatment of Photoaging. International Journal of Nanomedicine, 15, 2859–2872. https://doi.org/10.2147/IJN.S249751

Ha, J. M., Lim, C. A., Han, K., Ha, J. C., Lee, H. E., Lee, Y., ... & Im, M. (2017). The effect of micro-spicule containing epidermal growth factor on periocular wrinkles. Annals of dermatology, 29(2), 187.